In a previous article, we used to take multiple positions on the theme of ultra-thin and present some of the advantages and disadvantages of ultra-thin watches. In fact, it is not complicated to summarize. To the extreme, the less practical it is. And when watchmaking develops to a certain degree, it needs something qualitative to make it transcendence. Ultra-thin allows us to see that in the continuous progress of watchmaking technology, there are many very intelligent things.
Shell, disk and core are integrated
In 2014, Piaget launched a very powerful watch on SIHH, Piaget 900P. The thickness of the entire watch is only 3.65 mm, which is currently the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. This is basically beyond our inherent mechanical watch design pattern. In the traditional design scheme, this is impossible to achieve, and Piaget did it because it uses an unconventional scheme. I think many senior watch friends are still impressed with it. The reason why it can be made very thin is based on two important factors, one is the subversive movement, case, and dial structure, and the other is ultra-fine. Movement element.
The reason why this watch can be made so thin is that the movement, the case and the dial are integrated into one, and they do not distinguish each other, so it greatly compresses the space. The circular tile method is used to utilize the entire movement space as much as possible, thereby compressing the thickness. In fact, it is not difficult to see that the space of the traditional two-hand movement is not fully used, and Piaget redesigned the movement version to fill the entire movement, thereby saving space, which is why this watch is eccentric The reason for the hour and minute plate is to not increase the extra wheel train as much as possible, and the pointer even ‘sags’ directly into the splint, further reducing the thickness. In addition, it must be thin enough, including gears with only 0.12 mm.
The thinnest tourbillon watch Bulgari OCTO FINISSIMO Tourbillon
Hollow out version to see its movement layout more intuitively
Prior to Bulgari’s efforts to make ultra-thin watches, the heavyweight players in the ultra-thin world were Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin. For these established watchmakers, Bulgari was like ‘rushing into the house ‘Barbarians inside,’ forcibly broke through in multiple ultra-thin categories, ‘kill’ a sky. What surprised me a lot was the OCTO series of ultra-thin tourbillon watches with a movement thickness of only 1.95 millimeters. It is important to know that the thickness of the tourbillon watch alone exceeds the thickness of the tourbillon itself, not to mention other splints. Bonus. So how does Bulgari do it? Let’s take a look.
The position of the seconds wheel and tourbillon frame has changed
In this movement system of Bulgari, there are four points that make the most important contribution to ultra-thin. The first is the layout of the movement. From the skeleton version of the Bulgari OCTO tourbillon watch, we can clearly see that the four lines included in the movement version: clockwork to tourbillon, clockwork to the central hour and minute wheel, watch The crown of the crown, the crown of the dial. These four lines are very clear and do not overlap each other, so in terms of layout, it is tiled, and reducing the stacking can reduce the thickness. The second is the subversive movement design. In order to reduce the thickness, Bulgari eliminated the traditional back splint, leaving only one main base plate. All components are fixed on the base plate by screws and ball bearings. Only the front of the movement has some The necessary bridge plate, which reduces the stacking of the splint and the gear. Third, the gears are thin enough. Fourth, and the most critical, the tourbillon is very thin, because it changes the relationship between the seconds wheel and the tourbillon frame based on the traditional tourbillon structure. The traditional seconds wheel is located at the bottom of the tourbillon, and the treasure Gree enlarged it to the periphery of the tourbillon. The seconds wheel simultaneously drives the tourbillon frame and transmits energy for the escapement system, which further reduces the thickness of the tourbillon, plus the fine and thin tourbillon parts. To achieve amazing ultra-thin effects.
Thinnest Questionnaire Tourbillon Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybrida 11
Three minute safety lock at 8 o’clock
If you are a fan of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, then you must know the family of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Mechanica. This collection brings together the top technology and craftsmanship of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand. In 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the eleventh Hybridis Mechanica watch, which is an ultra-thin, three-question, tourbillon automatic watch. Its overall thickness is only 7.9 mm. You need to know an ordinary ultra-thin automatic watch , The thickness must reach about 7 millimeters, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, which integrates two complex structures, the thickness is still controlled within 8 millimeters, which is a miracle.
You can clearly see the particularity of Jaeger-LeCoultre flying balance-flying tourbillon
This watch has several innovations. The first is a flying tourbillon with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented flying balance wheel. Compared with traditional tourbillons, it differs from the traditional tourbillon in that it eliminates the outer frame of the tourbillon and replaces the original The internal escapement splint inside the tourbillon serves as an integral frame to connect with the seconds wheel, reducing the thickness of the tourbillon (this is in line with the design of the Montblanc brand external frame tourbillon of the Richemont Group, which is shared by the cutting-edge technology in the group) . The second is the peripheral automatic winding system, which can eliminate the central automatic winding structure and compress the thickness. The third is to design a retractable single-button starter for the minute repeater, which is simpler than the previous slider system and ensures a constant stroke of 2 mm, allowing the watch to maintain a thinner thickness. At the same time, the movement uses a central two-wheel layout to make room for the minute repeater and improve space utilization.
This is a step-by-step innovation that allows Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-complex watches to be reduced to an incredible thickness.
In fact, many ultra-thin technologies today rely on history. In 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a manual winding movement numbered 145 with a thickness of only 1.38 millimeters. This is a movement developed for pocket watches. In order to make the watch extremely thin, we can see When Jaeger-LeCoultre specially designed a different wheel train for this purpose, the design of the center two wheel took another turn before winding to the escapement system. Reducing gear stacking can reduce thickness. This method is the easiest and effective method in current ultra-thin watches.
Piaget 20P movement uses ball bearings instead of jewel bearings
Regarding the practice of ball bearings instead of jewel bearings, one of Piaget’s previous movements, 20P, has been used in large quantities. In that era, the technology is far less modern, and it can still make such delicate micromechanical structures. It’s very advanced.
For the majority of consumers of mechanical watches, the internal working principle of mechanical watches, especially complex mechanical watches, is meaningless, but there are still many people who are very enthusiastic about this, because machinery has its language and charm. At the same time, Machinery also embodies the heritage and wisdom of artisans. We all know that some famous watchmakers from abroad have more or less experienced the repair of antique clocks. Because of this, they can make mechanical works that take into account both beauty and technology.